kulit bercahaya

Moisturizers (pronounced /ˈmɔɪs.tʃə.raɪz.ərz/) or moisturisers (see spelling differences; also emollients, pronounced /iˈmɒliənts/) are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to make the external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and more pliable, by increasing its hydration (water content) by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc. may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic uses, but can also be made at home using common pharmacy ingredients.

By indication

Moisturizers prevent and treat dry skin, protect sensitive skin, improve skin tone and texture, and mask imperfections.^[1]

[edit] Preservation of normal skin

Moisturizers can be used to prevent the skin from becoming too dry or oily, such as with light, nongreasy water-based moisturizers. Such moisturizers often contain lightweight oils, such as cetyl alcohol, or silicone-derived ingredients, such as cyclomethicone.^[1]

[edit] Dry skin

For treating skin dryness, the most appropriate moisturizers are heavier, oil-based moisturizers that contain ingredients such as antioxidants, grape seed oil or dimethicone.^[1] For very dry, cracked skin, petrolatum-based products are preferable, as they have more lasting than creams and are more effective in preventing water evaporation.^[1]

[edit] Oily skin

In oily skin, moisturizers can still be useful after activities causing skin dryness, such as other skin care products and washing.^[1] For oily skin, water-based moisturizers that are specifically noncomedogenic are preferable, as there is less risk of comedo formation.^[1]

[edit] Ageing skin

Appropriate moisturizers to keep ageing skin soft and well hydrated are oil-based ones that contain petrolatum as the base, along with antioxidants or alpha hydroxy acids against wrinkles.^[1]

[edit] Sensitive skin

On sensitive skin (which otherwise is susceptible to skin irritations, redness, itching or rashes), it is preferable with moisturizers that contain soothing ingredients such as chamomile or aloe and that minimize potential allergens such as fragrances or dyes, as well as irritants such as acids.^[1]

[edit] Eczema

In eczema it is generally best to match thicker ointments to the driest, flakiest skin. Light emollients like aqueous cream may not have any effect on severely dry skin. Some common emollients for the relief of eczema include Oilatum, Balneum, Medi Oil, Diprobase, bath oils and aqueous cream. Sebexol, Epaderm ointment, Exederm and Eucerin lotion or cream may also be helpful with itching. Lotions or creams may be applied directly to the skin after bathing to lock in moisture. Moisturizing gloves (gloves which keep emollients in contact with skin on the hands) can be worn while sleeping. Generally, twice-daily applications of emollients work best. While creams are easy to apply, they are quickly absorbed into the skin, and therefore need frequent reapplication. Ointments, with less water content, stay on the skin for longer and need fewer applications, but they can be greasy and inconvenient.
Recently, ceramides, which are the major lipid constituent of the stratum corneum, have been used in the treatment of eczema.^[2][3][4] They are often one of the ingredients of modern moisturizers. These lipids were also successfully produced synthetically in the laboratory.^[5]

[edit] Mechanisms of action

There are three methods used to moisturize skin^[6]:

1. Occlusives: These work by forming a thin film on the surface of the skin to prevent any loss of moisture.
2. Humectants: These attract water from the air in order to moisturize the skin.
3. Restoration of Deficient Materials: These are more complex and try to restore natural moisturizing factors on the skin such as amino-lipids.

[edit] Risks of moisturizers

Two factors have to be considered when assessing the safety of a moisturizer:

1. The safety of the ingredients it contains. There are on-line databases like Skin Deep where consumers can get information about individual cosmetic ingredients.^[7]
2. The risk of bacterial contamination.

A recent study discovered that the application of certain moisturizers increases the incidence of skin cancer in high-risk mice. Note: these animals were subjected to UVB radiation in high doses over a long period of time prior to application of moisturizers.^[8] Four popular moisturizers were tested, providing the same result. It is not yet known if the same applies to humans. A fifth moisturizer, specially prepared without mineral oil and sodium lauryl sulphate, had no such effect.^[9] The researchers asked Johnson & Johnson to produce this cream for the study, which the pharmaceutical company later patented.
Some people are sensitive or allergic to certain chemical components, which can cause irritation, rashes, and other allergic reactions.
As with most skin-care products, there is a risk of moisturizers being contaminated with bacteria that can cause disease.

Nama sediaan : moisturizing cream o/w

Standart			pembanding			Modifikasi
N bahan	Fungsi	konsentrasi	N bahan	Fungsi	()	N bahan	Fungsi	[  ]
Stearic acid	Hpe6th,p697	4%	Stearid acid			Stearic acid	Emulsifying agent	5%
Cetyl alcohol	Emulsifying agent, stiffening agent	0,5%	Sodium hydroxide	Alkalizing agent		Gliseryl monostearat (*)	Emulsifying agent	3%
Mineral oil	Hpe6th hal445	20%	Metyl steare	Emolient, skin conditioning		Mineral oil	Emolien	20%
Amphisol (DEA-cetyl phosphate)	Surfaktan anionic	2%	Phenoxy alkohol	Anti microbial		Tea(*)	Alkalizing agent	1%
Propelene glycol	Humektan	3%	perfume	pengharum		Propylene glycol	humektan	3%
Nipagin	Pengawet	qs	nipagin	pengawet		perfume	pengharum	Qs
Nipasol			nipasol			nipagin	pengawet	0,18%
Water	Solven	68,5%	Water	solven		nipasol		0,02%
						water	solven
Tipe emulsi: o/w Cosmetic and toiletry formulation 2nd ed-vol 1, p233			Hydromoisturizing cream Tipe emulsi:o/w (citra hazeline lasting cool snow)			Bentuk sediaan: moisturizing cream Tipe emulsi o/w

Alasan pemilihan

Gliseeryl monostearat

Penambahan gliserol monostearat ini dimaksudkan setelah terjadi reaksi penyabunan antara Tea + asam stearat menjadi TEA stearart akan membentuk emulsi yang stabil tetapi setelah beberapa lama cenderung menjadi kental dan membentuk gel

TEA

Digunakan untuk emulsifier dan surfaktan juga berfungsi sebagai penyeimbang ph dalam bergai produk kosmetik mulai dari pembersih krim dan susu , lotion kulit, gel mata, moisturizer, shampoo dll . TEA adalah basa kuat dengan konsentrasi 1% memiliki ph sekitar 10, dimana ph kulit dibawh ph 7 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/triethanolamin)  

V1.Bentuk sediaan dasar

Bentuk:krim o/w

Definisi: -cream: bentuk sediaan setengah padat, mengandung 1/lebih bahan obat terlarut atau terdispersi dalam bahan dasar yang sesuai(FI IV hal 6)

-cream tipe o/w: krim ini mudah dibersihkan dari kulit, dapat dicuci dengan aie, emulgator untuk membentuk emulsi, umumnya dapat larut dalam air yang mudah dibasahi dengan air (scoville’s the art of compounding ed IX, p 266-269)

Persyaratan umum

-memiliki basis yang terdiri dari campuran minyak dan air dalam propersi tertentu                                                                  - menggunakan emulsifier untuk menjaga konsistensinya

-mengandung bahan aktif (www.ost.cosmetic.com/about-skin-care/cream .ingredints .html )

2. Bentuk sediaan terpilih

Bentuk sediaan: moisturizing cream

Definisi: sediaan kosmetik yang digunakan dengan maksud menormalkan jumlah air yang terdapat pada kulit sehingga diperoleh kulit yang lembut dan lembab (harry’s and cosmeticology ed7, p62)

Persyaratan umum

-          Mudah dioleskan secara meratapada kulit dan membentuk lapisan tipis

-          Tidak mengeritasi kulit

-          Permukaan halus, homogeny, tidak mengandung partikulat keras dan tajam

-          Tidak menodai pakaian

-          Sifat2x sediaan tidak berubah selama penyimpanan

-          (cosmetic sciene and technology,vol 3,p575)

Cara pembuatan

1.       Fase minyak: Lelehkan stearic acid dan gliseryl monostearat dalam WB 70derajat celcius ad leleh

2.       No1 di+ mineral oil di+ TEA aduk ad homogen masukkan mortir panas

3.       Fase air: nipagin+nipasol larutkan dengan propilen glikol +air 40ml panaskan B 70 derajat celcius

4.       Fase air masukkan no 2 dlm mortar panas aduk kuat + sisa air ad 120 (panas)

5.       Dinginkan campuran smp <35 derajat celcius + parfume

6.       Masukkan dalam wadah