Kamis, 02 Juni 2011

menonton indahnya kulit

Utilization of gene silencing effectors, such as microRNA (miRNA) and small airpin RNA (shRNA), provides a powerful new strategy for human skin care in vivo, particularly for hyperpigmentation treatment and aging prevention. In this study, tyrosinase (Tyr), the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin (black pigment) biosynthesis, was served as a target for treatment of hyperpigmentation in mouse and human skins. There are over 54 native microRNA capable of silencing human tyrosinase for skin whitening and lightening. To this, we have designed a mir-434-5p homologue and used it to successfully demonstrate the feasibility of miRNA-mediated skin whitening and lightening in vitro and in vivo. Under the same experimental condition in the trials, Pol-II-directed intronic mir-434-5p expression did not cause any detectable sign of cytotoxicity, whereas siRNAs targeting the same sequence often induced certain nonspecific mRNA degradation as previously reported. Because the intronic miRNA-mediated gene silencing pathway is tightly regulated by multiple intracellular surveillance systems, including Pol-II transcription, RNA splicing, exosomal digestion and nonsense-mediated RNA decay (NMD), the current findings underscore the fact that intronic miRNA agents, such as manually re-designed mir-434-5p homologues, are effective, target-specific and safe to be used for skin whitening without any detectable cytotoxic effect. Given that the human skins also express a variety of other native miRNAs, we may re-design these miRNAs based on their individual functions for skin care, which may provide significant insights into areas of opportunity for new cosmetic and/or therapeutical applications.



Whitening Lotion/Cream – for whitening with anti-aging ingredient; best for overall whitening/lightening of skin.
Lightening Lotion/Cream – for whitening with stronger potency than the Whitening Lotion/Cream to target small dark spots and hyperpigmentation.




Whitening and lightening
Formula Standart
Formulasi Pembanding
Formula Modifikasi
Nama bahan
Fungsi
[ ]
Nama Bahan
Fungsi
[]
Nama Bahan
Keterangan
[]
Arlacel 165
(gliseril stearat& PEG 100stearat
Emulsifier non ionic, surfaktan
(www.croda.com)
8%
Water
Solvent

gliseril monostearat;
asam stearate
Arlacel 165(10%gliseril monostearate,90%PEG100 stearate )
PEG100 dibuat dengan mengkombinasikan minyak alam dengan asam stearate untuk membentuk ester larut air atau secara sintetik dapat dibuat dengan mengkombinasikan oxirane (etilen dioksida) dan asam lemak (asam stearat)
6%
3%
C%t 2nd ed vol 1,p195
Crodamol CSP
Cetostearil palmitat
emulsifier
4%
Buthelyn alcohol
Solvent

Cetostearil alkohol

4%
Liq base CB 3929
(mineral oil & lanolin alcohol)
Emolien, emulsifying agent, plastisizer
4%
Isonoyl isonoate
Emolien

Mineral oil;
Setil alkohol
Pada formula baby o/w
Cosmetic&toiletry 2nd ed, vol1, p54
5%
4%
Crodalan IDL
(isopropyl lanolat)
emolien
2%
Cetyl alcohol
Emulsifying agent

Isopropil miristat

20%
Polycol 15 (ester PEG dari lanolin alcohol dengan harga etoksitat rata2x 15)
Dispersing agent, emulsifier o/w, wetting agent
3%
Lanolin alcohol

Tween 80;
Span 60
HLB polychol 15=12,7
0,2%
0,3%
Setil alcohol
Emolien, emulsifying agent, stiffening agent, water absorption
1%
Soluble collagen
Menjaga elastisitas kulit

Setil alkohol
-
1%
Nipagin
pengawet
0,05%
Squalen
Skin moisturizer

Nipagin
-
0,05%
Nipasol
0,15%
Morus bombycis roat extract
Lightening / whitening antioxidant

Nipasol
-
0,15%
Propilen glikol
humektan
5%
Glyserin
Humektan

Propilen glikol
-
5%
Kelzan
(xathan gum)
Viscosity increasing agent
2%
Urea
Skin moisturizer

Veegum
(Mg Al Silikat)
Viscosity modifier 2–10 %
(HPE, p.394)
2%
Na metabilsufit
Antioksidan
0,1%
Sacharide 
Humektan

Na metabisulfit

0,1%
Asam askorbat
Antioksidan, stabilizer,
O,1%
Magnesium aspartate
Chelating agent

Asam askorbat
Lightening agent
5%
Hidrokuinon
BA pemutih kulit
2%
Glycine
Buffering agent

-
Diganti Arbutine
3,77%
Air
solvent
64,4%
Alanine
Antioksidan

Air


Parfum
Pengharum
Qs
Creatine
Skin conditioning

Parfum

Qs



PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil
Emolien







Trideceth-9
Emulsifying surfaktan







Bisabolol
Skin conditioning







Ascorbyl dipalmitate
Antioxidant







Panthenol
Skin conditioning







Glyceril stearate
Emolien, emulsifying agent







PEG 100 stearate
Emulsifying agent







Dimethicone
Antifoaming agent, emolien (hpe5th, p586)







Potato starch modified
Viscosity
Controlling







Allantoin
Melembutkan & melembabkan kulit (md28th,400)







Titanium dioxide
Uv filter




Skin lightening cream, harry sp.269
Bentuk:
Alumina
Opadcifying viscocity controlling




Silica




Sodium polyacrylate
Emulsion stabilizing




Cetearyl ethylher xanoate
Emolien, skin conditioning





IPM
Emolien





Dea-cetyl fosfat
Emulsifying, surfaktan





Ethyl hexyl palmitate
Sunscreen agent





Sodium lactate
Anti microbial, emulsi fying







Ginko biloba leayes extract
Skin conditioning





Sodium PCA
Melembabkan kulit





Betaine
Humektan, skin conditioning





sorbitol
Humektan





Proline
Skin conditioning





serine
Skin conditioning





treonin
Antistatic





Glutamic acid
Buffering agent





Hydrous alsilikat
Absorben opacifying





Lactid acid
Acidifying agent





Aluminium
Absorben, anti  caking





Starch octenyl succinate
Viscosity controlling





Almond oil
Emolien, oleaginous vehicle





Tocopherol acetate
Antioksidan





Glikoprotein
Nutrisi kulit





Retynyl palmitate
Melembutkan & melembabkan kulit





Xanthan gum
Viscosity increasing agent





Phenoxy alkohol
antimicrobial





Metyl aparaben






Ethyl paraben
Pengawet





Propyl paraben





Butyl paraben





Parfume
Pengharum





Bentuk: krim o/w
Biokos Night radiance cream





Bentuk sediaan dasar
a.       Bentuk:krim o/w dan w/o
Krim adalah padatan atau emulsi semipadat, dan dapat diaplikasikan untuk produk non cairan seperti wax-solvent-based mascaras,liquid eyeshedow dan ointments
(harry’s cosmeticology,P50)
Syarat umum krim
-kandungan minyak sedang
-kadang sangat berminyak tetapi mudah menyebar
-bentuk w/o atau o/w
b.      Bentuk sediaan terpilih
Bentuk:krim pemtih dan pencerah
Krim pemutih adalah sediaan yang digunakan dengan 2 jalur untuk mencerahkan warna kulit dengan mereduksi pigmentasi: menghilangkan warna melamin /warna gelap dan mencegah pembentukan melamin (harry”s and cosmeticology p 266)
Syarat umum (harrys cosmeticology ,P50)
-kandungan minyak lebih banyak agar dapat menembus stratum basale
(tempat target obat)
PH netral
-mengandung surfaktan u/ meningkatkan penetrasi
-ph netral
-mengandung surfaktan u/meningkatkan penetrasi
- mudah menyebar




Cara pembuatan
1.       Kembangkan Veegum dalam air panas
2.       Larutkan nipagin nipasol dalam propilen glikol
3.       Fase minyak: cetostaryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, gliseril monostearat, as stearat, sebagian mineral oil
4.       No 1,2,3 masukkan mortar panas
5.       Arbutin levigasi dengan campuran tween 80 dan span 60
6.       No5 di + campuran vit c+ air
7.       No6+campuran Na metabisulfit + air
8.       No & masukkan dalam no $ aduk ad terbentuk krim


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