Whitening Lotion/Cream – for whitening with anti-aging ingredient; best for overall whitening/lightening of skin.
Lightening Lotion/Cream – for whitening with stronger potency than the Whitening Lotion/Cream to target small dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
Whitening and lightening
| Formula Standart | Formulasi Pembanding | Formula Modifikasi | ||||||
| Nama bahan | Fungsi | [ ] | Nama Bahan | Fungsi | [] | Nama Bahan | Keterangan | [] |
| Arlacel 165 (gliseril stearat& PEG 100stearat | Emulsifier non ionic, surfaktan (www.croda.com) | 8% | Water | Solvent | | gliseril monostearat; asam stearate | Arlacel 165(10%gliseril monostearate,90%PEG100 stearate ) PEG100 dibuat dengan mengkombinasikan minyak alam dengan asam stearate untuk membentuk ester larut air atau secara sintetik dapat dibuat dengan mengkombinasikan oxirane (etilen dioksida) dan asam lemak (asam stearat) | 6% 3% C%t 2nd ed vol 1,p195 |
| Crodamol CSP Cetostearil palmitat | emulsifier | 4% | Buthelyn alcohol | Solvent | | Cetostearil alkohol | | 4% |
| Liq base CB 3929 (mineral oil & lanolin alcohol) | Emolien, emulsifying agent, plastisizer | 4% | Isonoyl isonoate | Emolien | | Mineral oil; Setil alkohol | Pada formula baby o/w Cosmetic&toiletry 2nd ed, vol1, p54 | 5% 4% |
| Crodalan IDL (isopropyl lanolat) | emolien | 2% | Cetyl alcohol | Emulsifying agent | | Isopropil miristat | | 20% |
| Polycol 15 (ester PEG dari lanolin alcohol dengan harga etoksitat rata2x 15) | Dispersing agent, emulsifier o/w, wetting agent | 3% | Lanolin alcohol | | Tween 80; Span 60 | HLB polychol 15=12,7 | 0,2% 0,3% | |
| Setil alcohol | Emolien, emulsifying agent, stiffening agent, water absorption | 1% | Soluble collagen | Menjaga elastisitas kulit | | Setil alkohol | - | 1% |
| Nipagin | pengawet | 0,05% | Squalen | Skin moisturizer | | Nipagin | - | 0,05% |
| Nipasol | 0,15% | Morus bombycis roat extract | Lightening / whitening antioxidant | | Nipasol | - | 0,15% | |
| Propilen glikol | humektan | 5% | Glyserin | Humektan | | Propilen glikol | - | 5% |
| Kelzan (xathan gum) | Viscosity increasing agent | 2% | Urea | Skin moisturizer | | Veegum (Mg Al Silikat) | Viscosity modifier 2–10 % (HPE, p.394) | 2% |
| Na metabilsufit | Antioksidan | 0,1% | Sacharide | Humektan | | Na metabisulfit | | 0,1% |
| Asam askorbat | Antioksidan, stabilizer, | O,1% | Magnesium aspartate | Chelating agent | | Asam askorbat | Lightening agent | 5% |
| Hidrokuinon | BA pemutih kulit | 2% | Glycine | Buffering agent | | - | Diganti Arbutine | 3,77% |
| Air | solvent | 64,4% | Alanine | Antioksidan | | Air | | |
| Parfum | Pengharum | Qs | Creatine | Skin conditioning | | Parfum | | Qs |
| | | | PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil | Emolien | | | | |
| | | | Trideceth-9 | Emulsifying surfaktan | | | | |
| | | | Bisabolol | Skin conditioning | | | | |
| | | | Ascorbyl dipalmitate | Antioxidant | | | | |
| | | | Panthenol | Skin conditioning | | | | |
| | | | Glyceril stearate | Emolien, emulsifying agent | | | | |
| | | | PEG 100 stearate | Emulsifying agent | | | | |
| | | | Dimethicone | Antifoaming agent, emolien (hpe5th, p586) | | | | |
| | | | Potato starch modified | Viscosity Controlling | | | | |
| | | | Allantoin | Melembutkan & melembabkan kulit (md28th,400) | | | | |
| | | | Titanium dioxide | Uv filter | | | | |
| Skin lightening cream, harry sp.269 Bentuk: | Alumina | Opadcifying viscocity controlling | | | | | ||
| Silica | | | | | ||||
| Sodium polyacrylate | Emulsion stabilizing | | | | | |||
| Cetearyl ethylher xanoate | Emolien, skin conditioning | | | | | |||
| | IPM | Emolien | | | | | ||
| | Dea-cetyl fosfat | Emulsifying, surfaktan | | | | | ||
| | Ethyl hexyl palmitate | Sunscreen agent | | | | | ||
| | Sodium lactate | Anti microbial, emulsi fying | | | | | ||
| | Ginko biloba leayes extract | Skin conditioning | | | | | ||
| | Sodium PCA | Melembabkan kulit | | | | | ||
| | Betaine | Humektan, skin conditioning | | | | | ||
| | sorbitol | Humektan | | | | | ||
| | Proline | Skin conditioning | | | | | ||
| | serine | Skin conditioning | | | | | ||
| | treonin | Antistatic | | | | | ||
| | Glutamic acid | Buffering agent | | | | | ||
| | Hydrous alsilikat | Absorben opacifying | | | | | ||
| | Lactid acid | Acidifying agent | | | | | ||
| | Aluminium | Absorben, anti caking | | | | | ||
| | Starch octenyl succinate | Viscosity controlling | | | | | ||
| | Almond oil | Emolien, oleaginous vehicle | | | | | ||
| | Tocopherol acetate | Antioksidan | | | | | ||
| | Glikoprotein | Nutrisi kulit | | | | | ||
| | Retynyl palmitate | Melembutkan & melembabkan kulit | | | | | ||
| | Xanthan gum | Viscosity increasing agent | | | | | ||
| | Phenoxy alkohol | antimicrobial | | | | | ||
| | Metyl aparaben | | | | | | ||
| | Ethyl paraben | Pengawet | | | | | ||
| | Propyl paraben | | | | | |||
| | Butyl paraben | | | | | |||
| | Parfume | Pengharum | | | | | ||
| | Bentuk: krim o/w Biokos Night radiance cream | | | | | |||
Bentuk sediaan dasar
a. Bentuk:krim o/w dan w/o
Krim adalah padatan atau emulsi semipadat, dan dapat diaplikasikan untuk produk non cairan seperti wax-solvent-based mascaras,liquid eyeshedow dan ointments
(harry’s cosmeticology,P50)
Syarat umum krim
-kandungan minyak sedang
-kadang sangat berminyak tetapi mudah menyebar
-bentuk w/o atau o/w
b. Bentuk sediaan terpilih
Bentuk:krim pemtih dan pencerah
Krim pemutih adalah sediaan yang digunakan dengan 2 jalur untuk mencerahkan warna kulit dengan mereduksi pigmentasi: menghilangkan warna melamin /warna gelap dan mencegah pembentukan melamin (harry”s and cosmeticology p 266)
Syarat umum (harrys cosmeticology ,P50)
-kandungan minyak lebih banyak agar dapat menembus stratum basale
(tempat target obat)
PH netral
-mengandung surfaktan u/ meningkatkan penetrasi
-ph netral
-mengandung surfaktan u/meningkatkan penetrasi
- mudah menyebar
Cara pembuatan
1. Kembangkan Veegum dalam air panas
2. Larutkan nipagin nipasol dalam propilen glikol
3. Fase minyak: cetostaryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, gliseril monostearat, as stearat, sebagian mineral oil
4. No 1,2,3 masukkan mortar panas
5. Arbutin levigasi dengan campuran tween 80 dan span 60
6. No5 di + campuran vit c+ air
7. No6+campuran Na metabisulfit + air
8. No & masukkan dalam no $ aduk ad terbentuk krim

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